Feb 27th 2025
The humble 4-door that started a dynasty - All about the EVO 1-3
So, you want an EVO, but the 10 is just a bit… meh. How about the rawest of them all? Meet the EVO 1-3.
When you think of the Mitsubishi Evolution, what's the first thing that comes to mind? In the US, we think of what we grew up seeing, the EVO 8 and 9. Some might think of Tomi Makinen dominating WRC in the 4-6. But today we’re talking about what gets called the ‘ugly duckling’ generation - the EVO 1, 2, and 3.
If you’re looking for the best performance, these aren’t the cars for you. You should be looking at later generations. Their successors are faster, wider, stiffer, and have all-around better technology. But, if you happen to like how they look, and don’t mind that these aren’t the fastest, they will definitely give you a raw, nostalgic driving experience that only pre-2000’s cars can.
First, why group the 1, 2, & 3?
Those of you who aren’t fluent in EVO might be wondering why 1-3 are grouped together. That’s because they’re all based on the same chassis. They’re all very similar. After all, Mitsubishi was pumping out a new iteration almost every year. The same goes for the 4-6 and 7-9, while the EVO 10 is a bit of an outlier.
Quick links
- What makes them legendary
- Rally heritage
- GSR vs RS
- EVO 1-3 differences
- Why you should/shouln't buy one
- EVO 1-3 mods
What makes the EVO 1, 2 & 3 so legendary?
First, simply equipment they have, or lack thereof.
These cars come with the legendary 4G63 engine. Although not as refined as the later versions, these are still super stout motors that have been shown to produce some insane figures. This generation makes somewhere in the mid 200 HP straight out of the box, and if you wanna push it further, the stock internals can easily handle 400HP - not bad, especially for the 90’s
The 4G engine architecture has been around for almost 40 years now. The aftermarket support is immense. With a modern ball-bearing turbo and the appropriate supporting mods, you can build a very capable canyon carver.
This engine was combined with a super-light, nimble chassis, equipped with AWD, the result was a match made in heaven. Mitsubishi had already developed a capable all-wheel-drive system for the Galant VR-4. They simply transplanted to a smaller chassis. This is a simple, robust setup made to handle some extreme abuse.
Rally heritage
When you think of the EVO platform, you probably picture the World Rally Championship. While it’s true that the EVO did dominate in the late 90’s, it wasn’t an immediate success in the same way that the Subaru GC platform was.
The EVO 1 and 2 scored a handful of podiums from 93-95. Their first and only win was in Sweden in 1995 when EVOs driven by Kenneth Eriksson and Tommi Makinen finished 1st and 2nd. So, the EVO didn’t dominate during this period, but showed a lot of promise, especially in the snow.
With the EVO 3 things started to take off. In 1996 the EVO took 3 ‘championship for drivers’ wins under Makinen, although Subaru ended up winning more manufacturer's championships. Later, with the EVO 4-6, Mitisbishi would really start to dominate.
We never got them in the US
Besides the hardware and racing heritage, these cars are special in North America because we simply never got em’. As it stands, they’re already a low-production car, but show up to any meet in an EVO 1-6 and you're bound to get some attention - they’re not something you’ll see in the wild.
Overview
If you like cool, retro JDM cars and think this generation of EVO is right for you, there are a few things to know
GSR VS RS
For the 1-3, there are only 2 trim levels: GSR or RS.
The GSR is the higher of the two trims. These are better adapted to daily driving with creature comforts such as digital climate control, AC, and electric windows and mirrors. They come with better technology such as active center differential, ABS, aluminum wheels, and even Recaro bucket seats.
Compared to the Rally Sport, or RS, which is a bare-bones version. You get an analog climate control, crank windows, no AC, non-power door locks, no sound system, not even a trunk interior. The intent was to deliver a cheap skeleton car that could be modified to race-spec using aftermarket parts. They even come on steelies. Without the extra gear, these are about 150-200 lbs lighter than the GSR.
Which one is better?
Naturally, the RS was originally cheaper, however the tables have turned 10-15 years. In total, there were only around 3,800 RS models produced of the EVO 1, 2, & 3, compared with around 15,000 of the GSR. For this reason, the RS gets a heavy rarity tax.
If you can find a deal on an RS, that’s probably the one to get as it’s more collectible (and that's kinda the point of these retro cars). Just make sure you're not buying an ex-rally car.
Difference between EVO 1, 2, & 3
While they’re based on the same chassis, there are a few defining characteristics of each.
EVO I
Not surprisingly, this is the least powerful and refined EVO. You might be surprised to learn it wasn’t even called ‘EVO’, but rather ‘Lancer RS’. Its 4G put out about 250HP, although later versions would be modded to make more.
- Launched 1992
- About 7,500 produced
- 250HP
EVO II
The 2 wasn’t much different from the original. There were a few aero modifications like a more aggressive rear wing and a front lip, but nothing that will immediately catch your eye. It had a slightly more aggressive tune making 10 extra HP. These cars received proper ‘EVO’ badging on the truck and rear doors.
- Launched 1994
- About 6,200 produced
- 260HP
EVO III
Fans of Initial D will recognize this as Kyoichi Sudo’s car.
The 3 is immediately distinguishable from the others. It features a wider, more aggressive front bumper to accommodate a larger intercooler. There is more aero all around: a front lip, side skirts, and valances. Once again, the wing is more aggressive. There were some tweaks to the turbo and exhaust cam, netting another 10HP bump in power over its predecessor.
- Launched 1995
- About 10,000 produced
- 270HP
Why you may or may not want a retro EVO
Older JDM cars aren’t for everyone. If you’re looking for a car that will be competitive in any way, you should be looking at newer EVOs rather than these retro ones. An 8, 9, 10 is going to have a stiffer chassis, better aerodynamics, much more grip, and more advanced technology, such as AYC Besides weight, they’re basically better in every other category.
Another major drawback is parts availability. As these cars were never sold in North America, parts can be difficult to come by. It doesn’t help that this platform isn’t very modular either. In other words, parts aren’t as interchangeable as on comparable Subaru platforms.
Luckily, there is some overlap with USDM cars. If you need drivetrain components, the 2G Eclipse GSX shares a similar AWD system. You can probably find a 93-95 Mirage in your local junkyard. These share non-RHD specific interior parts, glass, and even entire doors (although most body panels differ). The aftermarket has you covered for most of your suspension needs. For typical wear items, you should be able to track them down if you’re willing to put in the legwork.
Body panels are the hardest to replace as they’re difficult to track down and a nightmare to ship - keep this in mind when looking for candidate vehicles.
So, who should be looking at these cars?
A classic EVO isn’t going to be the fastest or most comfortable, it’s also going to be more expensive to maintain than one of its successors. So, who should be in the market?
You need to have a collector’s mindset - think of them as a piece of history. These cars are ideal to take out on weekends for a cruise or to a show. You should be in the market for one that is relatively clean & straight, plus doesn’t have a bunch of irreversible mods like a full roll-cage.
And we have to address the elephant in the room: with any non-US car, it seems that as soon as they land on American soil the prices magically triple. These EVOs should be around 15K, given the prices in their home countries. In reality, you’ll be hard pressed to find one stateside for less than 20.
Mods for your EVO 1-3
Given the type of car we’re dealing with, we’re going to be recommending basic, tasteful mods that either add value or can be reverted in the future. Luckily, this platform takes very well to basic mods.
Engine
There’s no reason to go crazy with a fully forged engine. The 4G63T can handle more power in stock form than the chassis. Bolt-ons are more than enough. Shoot for a max of about 400-430HP.
Start with a turbo that’s appropriate for your power goals, this can either be a bolt-on unit that uses the factory manifold, or an aftermarket manifold/turbo/exhaust. Companies like Forged Performance make turbos with modern tech that can pump out 400+ HP, while retaining the original manifold. Alternatively, you could go for an aftermarket manifold with an external wastegate for even more potential.
Conveniently, turbo setups from the DSM are compatible with EVO 1-3.
To support the extra boost, you’ll need an upgrade the fuel system and exhaust. In addition, you’ll need an engine management solution, an upgraded clutch, and possibly some drop-in cams. The stock intercooler flows a ton, so no need for an upgrade there.
Tires, wheels & suspension
The limiting factor with these cars is traction. This is why having more than 450HP is kinda pointless.
Tires
Stock tires are only 205/60R15 and it’s hard to fit anything larger than a 215. Pretty measly considering an EVO X can fit 275/35’s without much effort. To get the most out of your tires, a good compound is everything. Some popular options are the Falken Azenis RT615K or Continental ExtremeContact DWS06.
Wheels
- Lug pattern: 4x114.3
- Lug thread: m12x1.5
- Center bore: 67.1mm
- Lug torque: 80 ft/lbs
This isn’t a fitment guide, just a few examples of wheel setups.
Some people like to stick with the factory OZ wheels. They’re pretty cool, but only 15x6”.
With aftermarket wheels, you want to maintain the spirit of the car. Stay with something small, 15, 16, or 17”. The widest you’ll want to go is about 7.5”, with an offset around +40.
One way is with some awesome period-correct like these Enkei PF01.
If you want new, modern wheels, unfortunately, there aren’t a ton of options given the specs. Enkei still makes a few like the RFP1 and EV5. You could also consider converting to 5 lug which would give you more options, although this is less popular nowadays.
EVO II RS on Enkei RPF1 (these come in 4 & 5 lug)
You could also look into brands that custom make wheels to your spec. Rotiform and Heritage Wheel are two brands that come to mind.
Suspension
The factory suspension was good… in the 90’s. If you’re still on stock suspension you need to do something about that. A set of coilovers is a must have for this type of car. BC Racing makes a few options, some are geared towards street use, while others are more performance-oriented.
While you’re working on the suspension, it’s a good idea to replace the brake pads. Also, check out the sway bar and control arm bushings as these are known to dry and crack pretty early.
If you need camber adjustment, coilovers will give you that in the front. For the rear, you’ll need adjustable upper control arms.
For a modest build, this is where the suspension mods would stop. But just know that the aftermarket support is almost infinite.
Wrap up
Some people love these retro EVOs for the nostalgia factor, while others forget they even exist. Whether you love or hate them, you can’t deny that they spawned an era for Mitsibshi in WRC. These days, you're more likely to see one at your local show than a track day - and honestly, that’s what they’re best for. This is a better platform for a restomod than a time attack build.
So, let us know - would you drive a retro EVO? Or would you prefer a different generation?