Feb 1st 2024
How To Build Your First Drift Car
Are you looking for the fastest way to destroy your car AND spend a ton of money doing it? Look no further than drifting.
You’ve just watched Tokyo drift for the 347th time like a real car guy. Now you wanna try it for yourself, but you have no idea where to start. Don’t worry, we got you covered. We’re gonna take you through everything you need to know to build the starter drift car of your dreams.
Quick links
Choosing a chassis to build
The first major decision is the platform you’re going to build.
Nissan 240sx (S-chassis)
Years ago, the Nissan 240sx was the go-to for beginner drifters. However, the major issue now is that the S-chassis, and other JDM cars of a similar vintage, are becoming collectors’ items. Basically, many of them have been put into a wall, parted out, then crushed. The remaining cars suffer from dreaded drift tax (over-inflated valves for drift rated items).
Not only are they expensive, but prices for OE parts are outrageous. A big issue because in stock form they don’t make much power - the stock KA24 single or dual cam made around 150hp, and that’s new. To make them powerful enough for drifting you’ll probably need an SR20 or RB swap, and these, like other OEM parts, are becoming unobtainium.
It seems like every 240 build never actually gets completed; they get torn down and just exist in a partially completed state. This is another con. Because they’re 30+ y/o, most S-chassis have traded hands more than a few times. They’re tired, clapped out… Plan on dealing with rust, damage, shoddy work from previous owners, etc, the list goes on…
One benefit of an older platform is that aftermarket parts are plentiful and affordable. Also, there’s tons of support and information. Basically, every swap you can think of, every wheel combination, every type of mod has been done to a 240, you just need to do a bit of research.
This is not the best starter drift platform. Unless you are made of money, there are probably better options. So what are they?
Nissan 350z (or Infiniti G35)
Before you started reading, you probably guessed this one was coming - the Nissan 350z. Sometimes called “the modern 240sx”, the Z comes with a VQ35 or VQ37. Unlike an s13/14, these cars are a lot more capable in stock form. They make good power & torque, they come with a nice 6-speed CD009 transmission (or the pre-’05 one that no one wants), and some even come with an LSD.
These cars are bulletproof, the VQ can be bounced off limiter all day. But the real kicker: they’re affordable, in the $3000-5000 range for a slightly beat example. Being a newer car, the parts aren’t an absolute gouge either. If you blow up the VQ, a replacement is only like 600 bucks.
This is the ultimate car for getting seat time, not much more to be said.
Hyundai Genesis Coupe
You might be wondering “Is it even RWD?”. Turns out it is. And if you can get over the memes about Hyundai owners, the Gencoupe might be your car.
This chassis has a lot of options, you can get it with a 2.0 I4-turbo or 3.8L NA V6. The V6 is about 50-75 lb heavier. Despite the extra weight, we would go with the V6 for the low-down torque, a nicety for beginners. The 2.0T technically has better weight balance, but are you gonna feel that as a beginner? Probably not. Both models come in a Track edition or R-spec with Brembo brakes; a good choice if you have the cash.
These cars tend to be a bit more than the 350z. If we had to pick between the two, it would be the Z, but not by a ton - both are good. Also, they can fit very similar wheel specs; we covered Gencoupe fitment in depth. The Genesis is arguably a bit more stylish and has a nicer interior, if that matters. Like the Z, you don’t need much to get started, maybe some basic mods before sending it on the track.
New Edge / S197 Mustang
This one is kinda the ugly duckling generation of Mustangs. You get V8 power, though it’s anemic V8 power ( +/- 260hp). There isn’t a huge uptake meaning no drift tax. They’re not super stylish, generally, people don’t care for ‘em. Most models come with an LSD. The 6-speed transmission is pretty stout. All around a good choice for a beginner, just not much style. Because of this, they’re extremely affordable, plus parts are plentiful.
We’re not trying to shit on Mustangs - they’re a great option. But they’re not gonna get the same ‘cool points’ as a 350z.
BMW E-Series: E36, E46, E90
The E36 suffers from many of the same problems as the 240sx. It's becoming a classic and suffers from old car issues that you don’t want as a new driver. Instead, we would recommend an E46.
The rear subframe is prone to cracking, so you definitely wanna reinforce that before you start sending it. They can be had in a manual transmission, they sound pretty good with the correct exhaust (but don’t go open downpipe, please, that sounds awful). They’re great bang-for-buck at around $1500 for a clapped out automatic, of course, this will take more work. Or you could drop 5-6k for a nice one. You could even get an SMG m3…if you like masochism.
The E90 chassis is getting to the age where prices could justify turning one into a drift missile. We don’t recommend the N54, that’s the I6-T in the 335i, reason being: they never seem to run. The E9x m3 is an instant avoid. For one, they’re way too expensive. Two, the S65 has endemic main bearing failures.
The best option of E9x for drifting is probably the 328i. More specifically, the e92 328i (sedan). Nice ‘n affordable, good weight distribution, stylish, same concept as the E46. If you want somethinglighter and smaller, check out the 1-Series. Not much more needs to be said about Bimmers; you get in, go drift, break something, fix, repeat.
C5 & C6 Corvette
Okay, here’s a more pricey platform, but hear us out. The C5 starts around 5-7 grand, up to 10. C6s are around 15-20k. The C6 is the best-looking generation, the C5 is the best bang-4-buck. These are proper sports cars, not econo-boxes modified beyond recognition. You get a manual T56 six-speed, notoriously strong. LS1 to LS3, need we say more? 360 to 420 hp and infinite room for growth. The only issue with the LS is oil starvation, but there are plenty of solutions.
These cars are made of fiberglass. If you crash ‘em, you're cooked. We don't mean a bit of fender rubbing during tandems, that happens, get out the zip ties! If you put it into a wall, however, be prepared to shell out a lot for replacement parts.
So which chassis is the best?
It boils down to personal preference. Our recommendation: the 350z for its noob & budget-friendly characteristics, or the C5 Vette for something that can be grown into. Both are great for getting you seat time from day one.
Modding your drift car
This is the part you’re really excited about, you got your new car and you wanna make it cooler. For some, this is half the fun. Unfortunately, your first mod needs to be seat time. Before you start tinkering with anything, you need a base of reference on how the car behaves. So get out there and drive the damn thing.
Coilovers
When it does come time for mods, suspension is a good place to start. The first thing you’ll want is a decent set of coilovers. Skip lowering springs, you want the performance and adjustability of real coils. Better handling under weight transfer means your car will be more predictable. As the vehicle transitions from one direction to the next, it will have less body roll. Not to mention, you can lower it for better looks - get those style points.
Coils are required to progress in suspension setups. Before you get into angle kits, roll-center correction, bushings, etc, you’ll need coils (not technically, but c’mon, who’s got Wisefab on stock struts?). You don’t need baller, super high-end stuff. Some good options you can find on Threepiece.us: BC Racing BR-Series, Silvers Neomax 1, and anything from the ISC or Fortune Auto lineups. These all cost around $1000 and will hold up great to any level of driving, beginner, intermediate or advanced.
Shifter & steering wheel
Shifters aren’t a must for drift cars, OEM units are often fine. The key is being comfortable, this will change driver to driver, car to car. The cheapest mod is a new knob. Get one that's shorter, longer, different material, whatever feels right. You could look into a short shifter that will change the throw, gate-spacing, and or position; this might help you feel more confident banging gears. The same principle applies to the e-brake lever, but rather than screwing on a knob you might have to fab up your own extension (or buy a cheap handbrake extender).
Steering wheels are a must. This is because OEM steering wheels pose a safety concern. You will certainly get smacked in the face by an airbag the first time you go off track. Don’t get smacked in the face. An aftermarket wheel/hub assembly solves this problem. NRG is a great brand for entry-level builds, again, you don’t need super-baller JDM parts. If you want, you could add a quick release or tilt, but that’s optional. If you really need those JDM points, get a Nardi, Keys Racing or Vertex - but don’t expect real parts to make ya a better driver.
Clutch
If you bought a manual, which you should have, you’ll need a new clutch. “But the previous owner said the clutch is fin…”. Drifting abuses clutches. When you clutch kick (i.e. use the clutch to brake the tires loose) you are hot spotting your clutch, which leads to slipping. So look into an aftermarket clutch
But don’t overbuild your car. You don’t need some crazy triple-disk, carbon-einsteinium, 1200hp-capable clutch; a stage 2 replacement from your favorite clutch manufacturer will do. If you wanna future proof, maybe get something a bit better.
Cooling
Some cars need more attention than others, cough cough BMW. Anything plastic should be replaced with non-plastic. You're going to be near limiter the whole lap; plastic is prone to cracking or melting. A simple radiator upgrade can work magic on most cars. Koyorad is the OG brand of radiator. If you’re ballin' on a budget, Mishimoto is also a good choice. Turbo cars get hot. If you have a turbo, think about wrapping it in a blanket to keep under-hood temps down, maybe put some exhaust wrap on that downpipe while you’re there.
Exhaust - honorable mention
You don’t need it, but who wants a modified car without one? If you can fab, get some tubing and stick something together. If not, have an exhaust shop do it. You don’t need anything fancy, it's gonna get beat up anyway.
Wheels & tires
This can make or break a build. Sticking with factory-sized rims means having to run a larger sidewall tire. These aren’t great for performance, or at least drifting performance. Thicker sidewall = good for drag, but for other motorsports it causes a loose feeling from the sidewall rolling over. So you always want an aftermarket wheel for your drift car. Stylish, lightweight, and cheap, are the criteria you’re looking for (stylish is optional).
Our personal favorite is the Herritage EBISU MonoC. These are a fairly new wheel that meets all the criteria. They’re about $1100 for an 18-inch set, available in 18x8.5, 18x9.5, 18x11, and have lug patterns for most cars.
The SIX-1 from 9six9 is a nice choice if you like TE37s. They’re a very affordable rep, which is important because you’ll definitely destroy your wheels drifting. Don’t let people convince you that real wheels are required, there’s no point in wrecking a $3000+ set of wheels. Aodhan is another cost-friendly brand.
Your money will be much better spent on extra wheels rather than real wheels. You want 3 fronts (2 on the car and 1 spare) and as many rears as you can afford. This will ensure you don’t have a track day cut short by running out of rubber.
For tires, you want something that’s all around good in front. If you can afford R-compound, get that. Otherwise, wide and grippy. In the rear, you want something cheap for obvious reasons. For example, we’d recommend Falken in the front, Ironman in the rear. Used tires are also great.
Two more considerations about wheels/tires, the first is consistency. Acquiring an arsenal of second-hand wheels for drift spares can be detrimental. This is because inconsistency in wheel specs, size, weight, tire, will throw you off - especially new drivers. Early on you should try to stay as consistent as possible, this is the most efficient way to hone your skills. Also, just because you can run an 11J on your 350z, doesn’t mean you should. In fact, don’t. The extra grip will make you struggle to keep the rear wheels spinning. The result is more clutch kicks needed, ultimately burning through tires faster. Just go with a 9.5J.
Go build your first drift car
Finding, modding and maintaining a track car is half the fun. In this article, we looked at the best platforms to learn on, then covered some of the modifications that you are going to wanna do. Yes, you’ve spent a lot of time and money at this point, but there is plenty left to burn - this is drifting after all.
If you’re looking for wheels or a suspension setup to go drifting, look no further than our website. Also, be sure to upload pictures of your finished drift car to our gallery to help others build theirs.